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Customer Reviews
Or better known as: what they are saying about us.
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Dave Karp, NJ, moparstyle.com
A couple of years ago, I was under my 79 Dodge Magnum. Those crappy rubber isolator bushings looked bad, real bad.
I used to know a guy that had a suspension business who I used to get alot of stuff from, his stuff is of good quality.
So I bought a set of poly bushings from him to replace the rubber ones. To be honest it was a bit better but not really substantial.
That summer getting ready for Carlisle a friend in Connecticut shows up to meet me to go to Carlisle. He shows up with these awesome
potato chips and tales of solid bushings. I guess they are spacers at this point.
He talks me into trying a set of them for my Magnum. This was good, as the polys were squashing just like the rubbers did.
The bushings showed up a few months back, with another bag of these real good chips. As I sat eating the chips and drinking an ice
cold Mikes Lemonade watching Vanishing Point, I pondered doing this project. ( I hate working on the car in the winter, and it was a
cold one).
A couple of weeks ago, after finishing painting the dining room, and another Mikes, I felt it was time. After a few hours under the big
ol' Dodge, the installation was a success. NOW I FEEL DIFFERENCE!!! The car is firmer, more stable and the bumpsteer is gone. I do not feel
any negative effect at all. There is no objectionable engine vibrations, noises or anything. Darn huge improvement.
A huge thanks to Cudazappa! Gary, Thanks, really.
How to put them in? Its not too bad of a job.
I had it easier, since I was removing poly bushings that was a decent quality kit of sorts. I do have to say putting the polys in was a
collosal waste of time and energy. I cant say strongly enough how you need to go right to the solids. These are big heavy cars and make
mince meat out of anything less.
The solid kit arrived, It included all 4 crossmember bushings, 4 new bolts. It also had bushings for the torsion bar crossmember as well
(He bought the complete kit - Gary)and new bolts for that. I have not done the t bar x member yet.
The bushings are aluminum. I coated them in POR 15 as well as anti seize on the mating surfaces. (Also of note: These were an earlier,
pre-anodized set. Now all Aluminum comes Black Anodized - Gary) I was fearful of electrolosis.
To remove the old bushings its not too aweful. You support the car under the frame rails. You want to keep a floor jack under the
crossmember for support. Pick either side to do 1st. I loosened the passenger side pretty far, then removed the driver side and lowered
the jack SLOWLY. It is best to have sawzal or equivilent as you more than likely need to cut the bushings out. Be carefull not cut through
brake lines or fuel lines etc. Slip in the new aluminums. put in the new bolts. Loctite is a good idea. Leave them loose do the other side.
Tighten them all up to 85 ft lbs.
These are basic instructions, consult a factory service manual for all the details, on a scale from 1-10, ten being the hardest, I would
rate this as a 4.
Probably good to get a wheel alignment at this point too. |
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FootBrakeVolare, aspenandvolare.com
I put a set on my 76'. Man, you talk about a difference! My 60' picked up, the car is solid as a rock running down the track,
it pulls both front wheels off the ground when it leaves now and handles much better. They are the only way to go. I did have to pull
and push a good bit to get the k-member in the right spot due to the motor and trans was stil in there but it was well worth the work.
Don't forget to make sure to put it on the front end machine right after install, you will need it if your stock bushings are wore out.
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